Electrical issues Series 4

Idle chat about any thing Sevens & Clubman cars.

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Boris67
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Re: Electrical issues Series 4

Post by Boris67 » Sat Sep 22, 2018 1:56 am

The tank is effectively wedged up between the seats and the back of the boot. You could drop it down a bit but I'm not sure you'd have enough clearance to get the fuel level sender out. The other issue is the exhaust, if yours has the original exhaust setup, plumbed down the side of the car, past the left rear wheel, through the suspension and out the back then the good news is the tank will foul on that as well... The tank seems to hold around 30 litres, I usually put 20 litres in mine and get about 200kms from that - perhaps, if your speedo is accurate, you can figure out how far you get on a similar amount and go from there. I don't fill mine up as the filler cap doesn't want to seal properly, despite a fair amount of effort!

Are you getting springs with your shocks?

Phill

Re: Electrical issues Series 4

Post by Phill » Sun Sep 23, 2018 9:03 am

Yes getting springs as well, might aswell do it once and properly. I think I will try your theory on the mileage fuel use. It could be that as Paul suggested with the car having been idle for a few years a stuck float i think for the mileage im potentially going to do this might work
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Gollum
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Re: Electrical issues Series 4

Post by Gollum » Sun Sep 23, 2018 4:57 pm

My theory is that everything got a bit gummed up in there as the old petrol evaporated and that it will take a bit of time and agitation for the new gas to dissolve everything and get it all working properly. It's not a theory based on science but rather on hope and a (small) dash of common sense. Best to defer the expense and effort of the alternative for a few weeks just in case I reckon.....

Nice looking car! You can't beat yellow for an S4 in my opinion. Interesting flare on the rear wheel arch - does it wear some serious rubber/offset? Got any more pictures for us?

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Gollum
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Re: Electrical issues Series 4

Post by Gollum » Sun Sep 23, 2018 5:04 pm

While you've got the front suspension off, have a think about the front tie-bar mod - apparently it makes a huge difference. It's on my list..... When you jack the front of the (stock) car up without the radiator in place, you can actually measure a growing distance between the front 'towers' as they move apart. Some folks describe the S4 radiators as being load-bearing!

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Phill

Re: Electrical issues Series 4

Post by Phill » Mon Sep 24, 2018 6:57 am

Car is a little bit neglected in some places,but is basically all there and sound, may consider tiebars, but just keen to get it running for Summer if possible. Just going to be a Sunday driver.
Have got more photos, but will post some more when car is back on its wheels, My windscreen washer bottle is leaking and brittle as hell so will be a makeshift one to pass WOF in meantime!

Considering getting it put on a Dyno when its finished to get it tuned to its best, but its quite expensive? Whats thoughts, I know it is running a bit rough, and I don't see the point in me putting new plugs in and having them burnt out or fouled by poor carby tuning (Which Im not attempting)., Just got standard 185 70 13 tyres. Flares look original? But who knows whats been done in 40 years!!. Going to leave fuel gauge issues and see what happens, carry a can of gas when I go somewhere!.

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Gollum
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Re: Electrical issues Series 4

Post by Gollum » Mon Sep 24, 2018 9:28 am

Dyno tuning is expensive but the result of a job well done is well worth it - so I've been told, I'm hoping to get mine on a dyno soon. The trick is finding someone who is knowledgable about dyno tuning and knows their way around a pair of sidedraughts. If they've been sitting, it might be worth having the carbs serviced before forking out for dyno-time. Otherwise they might not be able to tune them correctly or will have to replace stuff while you are paying for dyno time.

My car is (was) well and truly neglected. It was a racer all it's life befor being left in a workshop for almost 20 years. It's been road legal again for around 2 years now but it's still got all the cracks and scrapes etc from the hard life it's had!

Phill

Re: Electrical issues Series 4

Post by Phill » Mon Sep 24, 2018 1:37 pm

Will check out Dyno tune closer to time, Just a few gremlins to iron out first, then suspension,brakes, etc back together,hopefully pass a warrant, then rego and back on road.

Phill

Re: Electrical issues Series 4

Post by Phill » Wed Sep 26, 2018 10:02 am

Can anybody tell me what the deal is with a choke on the Twin Dellortos 40s, I seem to have the mechanism setup on top of carbys for one, but no sign of one ever been connected, Is it necessary or ? I know its a real ba....d to start, but that may be a tuning thing? Any ideas on potential for electronic ignition setup? Also think I need a new battrery as well, That may help things. Thanks in advance

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Boris67
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Re: Electrical issues Series 4

Post by Boris67 » Wed Sep 26, 2018 10:05 pm

Mine has the choke connected and it does seem to make starting easy - full choke, two pumps of the accelerator and off it goes. With the chokes open you get to hear lots of air being sucked in, it's noisy. I'll dig up or take a pic but basically the choke cable runs from the dash to the closest carb then there's a link to the other carb. If you take a look here:

https://www.lotus7.co.nz/viewtopic.php? ... 7&start=40

about half way down the page you'll see the carbs, with the choke connecting link between - hopefully Photobucket is displaying the photos!

On the previous page you'll see the electronic points conversion I installed, it was cheap, easy and has been really reliable. I got it from eBay and was something like this:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Electronic- ... SwEm1a3cvu

Really well worth it as getting at the dizzy is a prick!

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Birdman 7
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Re: Electrical issues Series 4

Post by Birdman 7 » Wed Sep 26, 2018 10:22 pm

I had a couple of Alfa Sprints years ago, both with twin Webers. I think the advice I was given is good for both Webers and Dell'Ortos. I was told never to use the choke and simply give it a couple of pumps of the accelerator when cold. This primes the carbs. Not sure if it was the Golden Lodge spark plugs (used by DC3 Twin Wasp motors) but those old girls wound over for about 5-10 seconds and always fired into life. Had to then catch them on the throttle, nurse them for a minute and then all was good with the world. And of course I was driving an Alfa! Love that induction roar and fruity exhaust cackle.

cheers
Grant

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