Mudbasher's "Beast"

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Rookie
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Re: Mudbasher's "Beast"

Post by Rookie » Sat May 24, 2014 8:50 am

Turbo cars need the timing pulled past peak torqure, that map doesn't do it. Also I'm not sure how much boost Simon is running, but if it is around 12 lb, it will be interpolating between 25° and 17°which is a pretty big margin of error, he might be running more or less but under driving conditions it will pass through that area and possibly cause issues. Another thing, I'm not sure when it comes on boost, but the 11.6°to 23~24°jump in the middle looks a little hinky to me as well.
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bzrse7en
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Re: Mudbasher's "Beast"

Post by bzrse7en » Sat May 24, 2014 11:06 am

Yea, Rookie could be right, thou I thought it looked OK the first time I looked.
So it needs smoothing on the transition into the upper cells. The really high advance numbers at the mid right are not necessary as the engine won't operate there often except on over run which is lower. I suppose it is worth doing a few logs to see where on the map lean cruise and power areas are.

Lean cruise can be 35 + degrees, but no other area needs it. This then corresponds with the ARF table. Lean cruise is about 3000rpm-ish?
Also take a look at the low rpm/idle area, you have 4 cells at 14 degrees, I'd be using this sort of grouping for idle, not above, as it gives a stable idle and ramp up the advance and mixture below to catch a stall. You'll need to change the 800rpm column to maybe 600rpm and shuffle a few things around.

Patrick

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Re: Mudbasher's "Beast"

Post by mudbasher » Tue May 27, 2014 4:25 pm

cheers for the tips. what do you guys think of this guys map?
http://www.freshalloy.com/showthread.ph ... ycle-Ideas

ordered some forged wisceo pistons, gt2876 turbo, 550cc injectors. Going to crack check the rods at work then order a set of arp bolts and metal head gasket set. HPE engineering are going to torque bore & plane the block. Aiming to run ~15psi boost which should put it round the 350ish hp.

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Re: Mudbasher's "Beast"

Post by Rookie » Wed May 28, 2014 8:24 am

That map looks pretty good, perhaps a little aggressive, you could run it and just pull a couple of degrees everywhere. The only real way to set up an ignition map correctly is a dyno unfortunately.

Your plan sounds like a good one.
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bzrse7en
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Re: Mudbasher's "Beast"

Post by bzrse7en » Wed May 28, 2014 5:06 pm

Ha, that map is more aggressive than yours, it just looks different because the Y axis has been scaled differently. I'd stick with what you have, but smooth out / remove timing in that area we discussed earlier. His idle area is better than yours. His map also has bugger all resolution below 100kpa, where as yours has pleabout the same above and below 100kpa.
If that map was used on a higher Hp engine than yours and has more aggressive timing and worked reliably, Is it possible you have another issue? Such as base timing set incorrectly, or your AFRs not calibrated, so going lean?
I'd also not rely on that electronic knock detection. If it needs tuning and your engine isn't tuned, there are too many variables for my liking. I used a piece of tube, flattened at one end and then trapped under a manifold nut. This tube was connected to a piece of hose which terminated in a set of ear muffs. Sounds crude and old school, but I am of the belief my ears don't need tuning to different pre-ignition knocks as an electronic unit would, in other words, your ears / brain have a broader range than a knock sensor - which could be well out of tune.
Google DIY knock detection, there is also an electronic solution using a microphone from a baby monitor in the engine bay, same thing, just more parts to go wrong.

Patrick

McGregor Motorsport

Re: Mudbasher's "Beast"

Post by McGregor Motorsport » Wed May 28, 2014 5:36 pm

Or you could pay 6-8 hundred dollars for a tuner to do it on a dyno and not rebuild your motor every time you make an error....

bzrse7en
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Re: Mudbasher's "Beast"

Post by bzrse7en » Wed May 28, 2014 7:50 pm

McGregor Motorsport wrote:Or you could pay 6-8 hundred dollars for a tuner to do it on a dyno and not rebuild your motor every time you make an error....
Geez Mark, where's the fun in that? :lol:

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Re: Mudbasher's "Beast"

Post by mudbasher » Wed May 28, 2014 9:06 pm

Might get car idling/reving then dyno time. Iv'e had my play and blown it once don't want to blow new motor as well.

McGregor Motorsport

Re: Mudbasher's "Beast"

Post by McGregor Motorsport » Thu May 29, 2014 7:17 am

bzrse7en wrote:
McGregor Motorsport wrote:Or you could pay 6-8 hundred dollars for a tuner to do it on a dyno and not rebuild your motor every time you make an error....
Geez Mark, where's the fun in that? :lol:
There's lots of fun! There's lots of little bits in the sump , lots of bits through a hole in the block , lots of little $ out of your wallet , lots of time waiting till its fixed and lots of......discussions with your wife over lots of little $......lots and lots of little lots of fun!! :D :D

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Re: Mudbasher's "Beast"

Post by bzrse7en » Thu May 29, 2014 9:21 am

McGregor Motorsport wrote:
bzrse7en wrote:
McGregor Motorsport wrote:Or you could pay 6-8 hundred dollars for a tuner to do it on a dyno and not rebuild your motor every time you make an error....
Geez Mark, where's the fun in that? :lol:
There's lots of fun! There's lots of little bits in the sump , lots of bits through a hole in the block , lots of little $ out of your wallet , lots of time waiting till its fixed and lots of......discussions with your wife over lots of little $......lots and lots of little lots of fun!! :D :D
Knowledge is power, all that other stuff you describe is experience.

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